Category Archives: Asia

Vespa Across Indonesia Part II

Nusa Tenggara, Traveling at the Speed of Whim

Story and Photos by Terry Donohue
Published in Indonesia Expat, May 21, 2018

Living in board shorts, riding from swimming hole to swimming hole and leaning into the next curve. This is freedom, this is touring Indonesia by Vespa.

The first part of my trip from Jakarta to Bali sharpened my appetite for the upcoming ride across Lombok, Sumbawa, Flores, Timor, Sumba, Nusa Penida and back to Jakarta. I reunited with my Vespa in Bali and headed straight for the ferry terminal. The next morning, I woke up in Lombok…

Lombok
Lombok, Pantai Mawan, Terry Donohue, Mawan, Mawan Beach
A kindred soul on Mawan Beach

I spent a few days exploring the south coast. To the west of Kuta are the quiet beaches of Mawan and Mawi where you can swim between the fishing boats and talk with the locals over a green coconut. Nearby Semeti Beach has pyramid-shaped rocks pocketed with tidal pools fed by crashing waves and sea spray.

To the east of Kuta is the spectacular Tanjung Bongo, a rolling green peninsula with hidden beaches, coves and caves that will entice you to become a castaway for the day. To really get away from it all, meditate atop the vertigo-inducing cliffs at Tanjung Poki, where the distant views of Sumbawa will make you feel like you are at end of the world. Return to a civilization at Pink Beach and enjoy the catch of the day.

Traveling north, I rode to Semaru on the cool slopes of Mt. Rinjani. This makes a good base for hiking to waterfalls. The most popular waterfall is the two-tiered Sedang Gile. Following the same trail is Tiu Kelep, where the powerful upper falls arc dramatically over the lower falls. Further afield is Mangku Sakti with its sculpted rock formations and milky blue water.

Sedang Gile, Lombok, Air Terjun, Sedang Gile Waterfall
Sedang Gile Waterfall

During the dry season you can climb Mt. Rinjani, a geological wonder and Indonesia’s second highest peak. The crater lake is a great place to cool off in the midday sun and your tired legs will appreciate a soak in the hot springs at sunset. If you are lucky, you will see troops of Black Ebony Leaf Monkeys along the way. This is an incredible two or three-day trip.

Sumbawa

It only takes an hour and a half by ferry to reach Sumbawa. Getting off the ferry, I wove through a herd of goats and headed south down the west coast. Check out the beautiful bay at Maluk and stay at Rantung Beach where you can watch families net fish every morning while having your morning coffee. Cap off your west coast visit at Jelenga, the beach that has it all. Here you can surf, snorkel, enjoy some of the world’s best sunsets, and spend the nights counting shooting stars. This place is paradise.

 

The road across the island eastward is perfect for motorcycle touring. Void of traffic, it meanders along the north coast of Sumbawa and eventually climbs above the expansive Saleh Bay before continuing eastward to Bima and the ferry terminal at Sape. Let the road be your destination.

Flores
Indonesian Ferry, Labuan Bajo, Arriving in Labuan Bajo
Arriving in Labuan Bajo

It’s a six-hour ferry ride from Sape to Flores. The town of Labuan Bajo makes a great base for exploring the Komodo Islands, home of the famous Komodo Dragons and some of the world’s best diving. Here you can dive with five-meter oceanic mantas that swim so close you will feel the water move when they pass.

The road out of Labuan Bajo will take you over mountains and into valleys with sweeping views along the way. Near Wae Belang are the symmetrical Spider Web rice terraces. North of Ruteng, vast rice terraces cascade down the mountainsides like they do in Bali.

Outside of Bajawa, visit Bena village with its megalithic stones, ancestral shrines and traditional houses. Continuing eastward along the south coast you will pass Blue Stone Beach and the town of Ende, which is nestled between two extinct volcanos.

 

I stopped at a gas kiosk where an eight-year-old boy filled up my tank using a hand pump. The entire family gathered around. They advised me to go to Koka Beach, a small peninsula flanked by white sand and clear water. I spent the night there in a ramshackle beach bungalow and woke in the morning to the sound of fishermen readying their boats.

Koka Beach, Flores
Boats on Koka Beach

From Koka it was a steep ride up the valley towards the crater lakes of Kelimutu. Along the way I saw a single waterfall drop for hundreds of meters in two tiers. Stopping to take a picture I was greeted by a woman carrying a load of wood on her head. She directed me through the rice terraces to a local swimming hole.

That evening I spent the night in Moni and at sunrise was riding to Kelimutu National Park with its different colored lakes. The lakes are the homes of those who have passed away. One is for the virtuous, one for those who do evil and the third lake for the rest of us. I pondered my fate over a cup of ginger-infused Kelimutu coffee made by an elderly ikat-clad women squatting near the crater rim.

 

Over the next couple of days, I continued to explore eastern Flores, meeting fishermen and diving out of mangrove trees with local kids. I watched my final sunset submerged in a hot spring on a beach near Larantuka, then caught the lazy morning ferry to Kupang, a 12-hour journey.

Timor

Kupang, a thriving metropolis, makes a good temporary base for exploration. About an hour out of town descend into Kristal Cave with the local kids and swim in the shimmering waters by the light of your hand phone. Another hour away, cool off at Oenesu waterfall where dragonflies land on your head and multicolored spiders, the size of your hand, are suspended in the bamboo groves.

Leaving Kupang for the Central Highlands, spend a couple of hours hiking to Oesusu Falls, then buy snacks from the kids on the bridge over the Noel Mina river before visiting the fascinating beehive huts of the None tribe. If you are lucky, you may get an impromptu demonstration on how to chew betel nut.

For a transformational experience visit the Boti tribe, one of the last vestiges of humanity to resist modern culture. The Boti’s shun the use of electricity, weave their own ikat and live off the land. They have a king and to this day still uphold their animist beliefs. I spent the night in the village under a sky full of stars and it left me with a genuine appreciation of their uncomplicated lifestyle.

Kolbano Beach, Timor, Indonesia, Terry Donohue
On the pier at Kolbano Beach

Dropping down from the central highlands, head to Kolbano Beach where the white limestone sands mingle with the blue Indian Ocean making a dazzling shade of turquoise. Stop for some gas before the long ride back to Kupang where you can catch the ferry to Sumba.

Sumba

It took a full 28 hours to reach Sumba from Kupang as the ferry made a stop in Flores. I shared the rooftop with the crew where we watched an angry storm morph into a Michelangelo-inspired sunset. Then a pod of whales swam off the port bow. At night the crew played cards and in the morning beams of light seemed to radiate from the depths of the Savu Sea. I felt like I was on my own private cruise ship.

Sumba had a surreal quality. East of Waingapu, in the clear waters off of Walakiri Beach I discovered a forest of pygmy mangrove trees. Nearby, families worked together netting fish and kids played on long spits of white sand wrapping around translucent blue tidal pools. To the west, a storm inundated the city while we played in the sun. It was pure magic.

Crossing the island from east to west be sure to stop at the megalithic stones of Pasunga, where you will probably be greeted by throngs of children rolling tires with sticks. The west coast, sometimes described as Sumba on steroids, has many places of cultural and natural beauty. Visit the spectacular Weekuri Lagoon, a sparkling body of water created by seawater surging under the cliffs. Then take the dirt road heading along the coast to the traditional villages of Wanno Be’u and Ratenggaro where the houses are built with towering roofs so there is room for the ancestor spirits.

Ratenggaro, sits on a beautiful estuary where a pristine river merges with the pounding Indian Ocean. White sand bars divide the estuary and from the sea creating a scene from your imagination. I entered the beach and was boxed in by a gang of betel nut-chewing men wielding swords. They demanded that I sign their book and pay an entrance fee.

Desiring to keep all of my limbs, I did as they asked and then joined a group of kids that were hurling themselves off the rocks into the water below and having a great time. Overall, it was interesting to experience a slice of life in Ratenggaro, a place that operates in its own little universe.

Back to Sumbawa, Lombok, Bali and on to Nusa Penida
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Zipping across the other-worldly landscape of Sumbawa

I left Sumba on the daily ferry to Sumbawa. People spit betel nut juice over the railing as I contemplated my success. I had looped around Nusa Tenggara, but I still had one island left to explore: Nusa Penida.

Zipping across Sumbawa and Lombok, I arrived in Bali in a couple of days. From there I took the ferry to Nusa Penida and stayed in a rickety treehouse with a distant view of Bali and Mt. Agung through the coconut trees.

By day I visited the majestic Kelingking Beach and the sun-bleached Baniff Cliffs. I snorkelled the secluded bay at Atun Beach and marvelled at the natural arch and sparkling lagoon at Broken Beach. From the cliffs above the infinity pool at Angel’s Billabong I watched oceanic mantas perform a ballet and at sunset I snorkelled with mantas in Crystal Bay. In the evenings I reflected on life with a cold beer from the porch of my treehouse. Life was good.

Marathon Back to Jakarta

From Nusa Penida it was two ferries and a five-day ride to Jakarta. A marathon, but Indonesia continued to surprise me.  After day of riding on the busy national road, I would arrive at the hotel with my face caked with road grime, looking more like a raccoon than a human. And this is exactly how I looked when I pulled up the driveway to my house in Jakarta.

The entire trip had taken me 61 days. I looked down at my odometer and realized I clocked a little over 7,250 kilometers, about the same distance as riding from Key West, Florida to Juneau, Alaska. It had been an epic ride – and most of it at the speed of whim…

Practical Information
Ferries

The following ferries will take both you and your motorcycle and are very reasonably priced. People at the port will point you in the right direction. Note that It’s best to buy food from the vendors before the ferry takes off, otherwise your choices will be limited. Overall, I really enjoyed the ferries. Check online for the latest schedule, but this will give you an idea.

  • Bali (Padang Bai) to Lombok (Lembar): 5 hours, there are a couple every day
  • Lombok (Labuan) to Sumbawa (Poto Tano): 1.5 hours, there are a few every day
  • Sumbawa (Sapi) to Flores (Labuan Bajo): 6 hours, once a day
  • Flores (Larantuka) to Timor (Kupang): 12 hours, twice a week
  • Timor (Kupang) to Sumba (Waingapu): 28 hours via Aimere, Flores, once a week. There is also a direct ferry, 18 hours, once a week
  • Sumba (Waikelo) to Sumbawa (Sape), 7 hours, three times a week
Maps

Google Maps is my favorite, but it’s good to have maps.me as it works offline. Take both.

Booking Accommodations

Nineteen out of twenty times, booking.com does the best job. Put this app on your phone.

More Info

There are two great websites, search for TripCanvas and TravelFish. These will get you off the beaten path.

More Pix

 

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Vespa Across Indonesia Part I

Jakarta to Bali, Traveling at the Speed of Whim.

Text and Photos Terry Donohue
Published in “Indonesian Expat”, March 2018, Issue 209
Follow the trip on Instagram @donohueterry

fishing boats, indonesian fishing boats, Java, Terry Donohue
Fishing boats, north Java

Ever had a crazy notion to ride a Vespa across Indonesia? Well, for years I’ve had this idea stewing in the back of my mind. Pouring over the maps and talking with friends and motorcycle enthusiasts, I plotted a trip from Jakarta through Nusa Tenggara all the way to Timur. Sure enough, most people thought I was crazy.

Now that I am free from the shackles of the “nine to five” and still blessed with a wife who is also my best friend, I set out on this solo adventure one hazy Jakarta morning last January. Riding my Vespa GTS, affectionately known as “Big Budi”, I spent weeks zigzagging across Java and Bali, visiting places that I have always wanted to see and discovering places that were totally off my radar. This trip confirmed that Indonesia is as fascinating as ever, and one of the world’s great touring destinations.

There is a long list of cultural and natural wonders that can guide you across the archipelago. Just pull out a map, start drooling and stick some pins in it. You can climb volcanos, explore rainforest, surf, dive and snorkel, however, one thing I learned is that the real thrill is in the journey, not in the destination. After a few days you will find yourself not caring where you are going or how long it’ll take to get there – and the feeling is liberating!

Java, Gunung Bromo, Bromo, Mt Bromo, Bromo Crater, Terry Donohue
The abyss of Bromo Crater

There are a lot of big name places to pin on your map like Bromo, Borobudur and Ubud, just to name a few. And though there is nothing like gazing into the fuming abyss of Bromo Crater, realize that many not-so-famous places will feed your adventurous spirit. Like following the bamboo bridges and walkways over headlands on the south coast of Java, or body surfing perfect waves in Bali at a beach more popular with cows than people, or cleansing your soul in sacred baths nestled amongst the oldest Hindu ruins in Java. There are also little-known waterfalls, canyons and villages throughout Java and Bali where you can hike into the clouds, stumble upon Viking-like fishing boats bedecked in Hindu and Muslim motifs, or be the first traveler that people have ever seen. You can do this if you have your own wheels and take the roads less traveled.

After a few days you will find yourself
not caring where you are going or how
long it’ll take to get there …

Java, Indonesia, Terry Donohue, mattresses
Stacked high with mattresses

Then there are the little things in life. Take time to have breakfast at a tiny warung on a busy street corner. Watch life go by. Men pushing carts stacked high with mattresses, becak drivers in search of the day’s first customer, or jamu ladies pedaling bicycles jingling with bottles of herbal medicine. Life in Indonesia is rich.

I stopped in a small town one morning to watch villagers carry their bananas to market. Sipping coffee and munching on fried bananas, I was approached by an old woman in a tattered batik dress. She lifted the load off her head and sat down next to me. Silently, she unwrapped a banana leaf and ate a steamed banana, and together we gazed onto the busy street. It was our “banana moment”. A precious slice of life.

When you speak Bahasa, people in the countryside may be shocked. In rural Java I stopped at a crossroad to ask directions from a group of farmers. They looked at me, eyes dilating as I spoke, and when I finished they all just burst out laughing! I asked again, but they couldn’t stop laughing. I never did get an answer…

Java, Indonesia, Terry Donohue, south Java, beach, green coconut
Go local with a green coconut, it’s a drink and a meal all in one – only 50 cents

Adapt to the Indonesian way of life and you’ll never have to worry about food or gas. Almost every village has a warung serving up nasi goreng or bakso. And if there aren’t any gas stations, who cares? Eventually you will see someone squatting and smoking next to a rack of recycled bottles filled with bensin. Let them finish their cigarette, then fill up your tank.

Though national roads will often get you to places faster than back roads, avoid them when you can. National roads are the domain of speed freaks racing from point A to point B. It’s unnerving when a behemoth, like a Pariwisata bus, sneaks up from behind and sounds a horn so loud that it blows your helmet forward.

Then there are the long-suffering traffic lights where you will bake in the sun while people indiscriminately flick cigarette butts out the window in your direction. No thank you. Get on the back roads where smiles beam from beneath coolie hats and people wave to you from fields so arrestingly green that you will have to stop and take a picture. This is the real Indonesia.

Bali, Indonesia, Terry Donohue, Ubud, Ubud market, puja
Daily puja at a Balinese temple

Besides packable clothing, a bathing suit, mask and snorkel, hiking sneakers and a warm jacket all you really need are the following:

  • A Scooter: Contrary to western belief, you don’t need (or want) a 1500 cc motorcycle in Indonesia. In fact, 125 cc will do just fine. I can see my friends back in North America falling out of their chairs as they read this, but it is true. If you have a scooter, buy a top box and go! If you don’t have a scooter, pack light and rent one at your next destination.
  • A Map App: There are many good apps, but I prefer Google Maps as I like the lady’s perky voice. Just be aware that she knows your every move. So when mother nature calls and you sneak off into the bushes with your phone in your pocket, you may be caught off guard by one of her sudden tirades: “Turn right! Continue north! In 400 meters do a U-turn!” which, of course, will alert anyone nearby of your whereabouts. Google Maps also offers alternative routes that will get you off the main roads and into some spectacular countryside.
  • A Booking App: When booking homestays and hotels, I find that Booking.com works great in Indonesia. Don’t book too far in advance, as you may find a gem along the way and change your plans.
  • Music: Load up your phone before you go as you will have lots of time to hear your favorite tunes and explore new music. Tip: I found that the Bebop will help you improvise your way through any convoluted traffic jam!
  • Language: Lastly, learn enough Bahasa to greet people and ask directions. Then load a Bahasa podcast onto your phone, learn more along the way and dazzle everyone.

Yes, maybe heading across Indonesia on Big Budi was a crazy idea, but what a great way to intimately explore this fascinating country – traveling at the speed of whim.

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Street Vendors of Jakarta

Text and Photos by Terry Donohue
Published on page 10 of “Indonesian Expat” January 2018

Colorful street vendors, an integral part of Jakarta’s landscape that can make other cities look boring – even sterile.  A thriving underground economy, street vendors reflect a resourceful entrepreneurial spirit that delivers goods and services directly to the consumer using some ingenious forms of transportation.

The iconic kaki lima (five legs), so called for the three “legs” on the cart and the two legs that push it, is the heart and soul of low-cost, efficient transportation systems.  Joined by a plethora of modified bicycles and scooters, this unregulated industry provides millions of Indonesians with a livelihood.  We see them every day, but who are they? What are their days like?  I rode a bicycle around my neighborhood to find out more…

Mini Mart Cart

street vendors, jakarta, kaki lima, indonesia, street vendor, terry donohue, java

Looking quite stoic in the picture, Pak Sarkum and his wife light up when they talk about their life together.  The couple have plied the streets from Teroggong Kecil to Pondok Indah since 1982, earning enough to buy a house and raise a family of four.  “Banyak hal!”, Pak Sarkum says with a laugh, “I sell many things! Tofu, tempeh, vegetables…” When asked about places in the world he would like to visit, the grandfather of five smiles and bellows “Everywhere!”  Patting his belly, he looks at his wife and adds “But I need to be fit, so I better start working out!”

Roving Toy Store

street vendors, jakarta, kaki lima, indonesia, street vendor, terry donohue, java

Praised by surrounding female customers for his good looks, Pak Ujang has worked in Jakarta for five years.  He walks from school to school pushing a kaki lima piled high with colorful toys – the kind of goodies that cause children to tug on their mother’s arm and beg.  He is a shy man with a peaceful demeanor who is an oasis of calm on streets railing with speeding scooters, clambering school kids and cackling mothers.  Usually working 12-hour days, he wistfully says that his dream is to find a good-paying job near his kampung (village) in Sunda so that he can live with his wife, his children and his parents.  Until then, he will stay in Jakarta and send most of his money back home.

Fish on a Bike

street vendors, jakarta, kaki lima, indonesia, street vendor, terry donohue, java

Dressed in board shorts and sporting an ear-to-ear grin, Ahmad, projects an air of “cool”.  He has been selling tropical fish for over seven years.  He can tell you the names of each one and which species are compatible in the same aquarium.  His bicycle is equipped with a rack made of bamboo, reminiscent of a hospital IV pole, where he hangs dozens of clear plastic bags full of the live creatures.  Ahmad buys everything at the bazaar and has no desire to explore the ocean.  “Hiu!”, he declares with a visible shudder – he’s doesn’t want to be eaten by sharks!

The Vegetable Vendor

street vendors, jakarta, kaki lima, indonesia, street vendor, terry donohue, java

A gregarious gentleman, Pak Jonny has been a vegetable seller for 28 years.  Waking up each day 2:00 am to be first at the market, he buys a mountain of vegetables, bags them and carefully arranges everything onto his custom-made scooter before embarking on a daily route through Jakarta Seletan.   He says when dealing with bules (foreigners) he has learned to write prices down on paper to avoid misunderstandings.  Honest and indomitably hard working, he typically returns home well after sunset.  When asked if there is anything else he would rather do, his eyes glaze over and he shakes his head.  After a minute of silence, he quietly replies, “No, because this is how I support my family.”

Sewing Machine on Wheels

street vendors, jakarta, kaki lima, indonesia, street vendor, terry donohue, java

Edi, a trained tailor from Pakalongan, left his home five years ago to make it big in Jakarta.  With a foot-powered sewing machine cleverly mounted on a three-wheeled bicycle, he patrols the streets of Pondok Indah attracting local and expat customers alike. He sews Levis for men, women and children and can repair just about anything else. An articulate and ambitious man, he is happiest when it is sunny outside and he can get lots of work.  He dreads the rainy season when all he can do is sit at home eating, smoking and drinking coffee.

A Javanese Favorite

street vendors, jakarta, kaki lima, indonesia, street vendor, terry donohue, java

As Pak Jono pushes his kaki lima through the twisting alleyways of Jakarta, his lilting call of “Jagung!” alerts everyone that it is time for a treat.  Known as blendu in Ceribon and konsi in Sukabumi, jagung is a corn dessert garnished with multicolored sweets and grated coconut. Each day he heads to the market at 2:00 am to buy supplies.  Returning home, he follows a painstaking five-hour cooking and cooling process that causes the kernels to double in size. To maintain quality, everything must be sold the same day, which typically entails a foot-weary, ten-hour journey through Lebak Bulus and Cilandak. With sleepy eyes and a Cheshire cat smile, he tells me he has been doing this for over 28 years.

Rolling Soup Kitchen

street vendors, jakarta, kaki lima, indonesia, street vendor, terry donohue, java

Pak Asim works hard.  One night when returning home, he was so tired he failed to see a polisi tidur, one of Jakarta’s ubiquitous speed bumps, and hit it so hard that dishes, silverware and condiments were sent flying in every direction!  His specialty is Baso Malang, a tasty meatball soup served with tofu and crispy wanton, that originates from his region in Central Java. Insisting that it is made fresh every day, he arrives at the market at sunrise and cooks all morning.  He starts his route by lunchtime and continues until the last ladleful is sold, often resulting in a 15-hour workday.  Asim would like to return to his kampung to live with his wife and children, but remains in Jakarta to make his fortune.

Walking Broom Vendor

street vendors, jakarta, kaki lima, indonesia, street vendor, terry donohue, java

The singsong call of “Sapu-uuu” echoes off the buildings as Nana resolutely strides through Cilandak, Cipete and Kemang.  Rhythmically recoiling on his shoulder is a long bamboo strip called a pikulan that is strung with brooms, mops and a multitude of kitchenware. Having carried this heavy load for over 18 years, Nana appears a couple centimeters shorter than he actually is.  Normally a happy guy, he gets annoyed by the longstanding catcall of, “Hey!  Are you mad at your wife?  Why are you selling her stuff?”. Nana smiles broadly when he talks of one day making a pilgrimage to Mecca and then travelling on to see the sights of Germany.


Back Story Photos…

Raja Ampat: The Holy Grail of Marine Diversity

Text by Terry Donohue
Photos and videos by Chloé Donohue
Published “exclusively” on Where2

As any avid diver knows, Raja Ampat is the holy grail of marine diversity.  It’s where the Pacific and Indian Oceans meet and is a route for many pelagic species.  There are dozens of remarkable dive sites with varying topographies – from walls to pinnacles and coral gardens to caves.  We returned to Raja Ampat in December of 2017.  Here is a small sampling of what we encountered while diving…

Tasseled Wobbegong Sharks
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A Tasseled Wobbegong shark lies in waiting…

Named after the stringy fringe around their mouths, these sedentary creatures are ambush predators. Masters of camouflage, they can be difficult to spot even when they are right in front of you – look for their swaying tail which will look like a fish pacing the floor of a hospital waiting room.

Wobbegongs typically lie under the coral until something tasty swims by, then they slurp it up like a vacuum cleaner.  I have never seen a Wobbegong move much, until this dive at Meyhem…

Hawksbill Turtles

Hawksbill and Green Sea Turtles are commonly found on the reefs of Raja Ampat. Green Sea Turtles are gentle algae feeders that can sometimes be seen massaging themselves against rocks and coral.  Hawksbill turtles on the other hand, act like they just came home from a pub crawl, knocking over everything in their path and leaving the reef in a mess.  This one even bungled into my GoPro!

A Snoozing Napoleon Wrasse

These gentle giants inhabit the reefs of Raja Ampat and across Indonesia.  They can reach up to two meters and are usually seen casually cruising by themselves. Like most marine creatures, they enjoy being groomed by cleaner fish.  However, I have never seen a Napoleon in such a state of bliss like this sleeping beauty we encountered at a dive site called Kuburan…

Pirouetting Oceanic Mantas
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An Oceanic Manta

Graceful.  Mesmerizing.  Huge.  These elegant creatures can be seen at dive sites throughout Raja Ampat when there is an abundance of plankton.  Ranging from three to five meters, they will reward patient divers with a dance that outclasses a Russian ballet.

The most famous site to see oceanic mantas is Manta Sandy, however these videos were taken at Mioscon.  Remember to give the mantas space.  If you are very still, they will often come to you.  Also, never touch them as you can remove the protective coating on their skin, making them susceptible to disease.

Patrolling Reef Sharks

On most plunges into the blue, divers will encounter blacktip, whitetip or grey reef sharks.  These predators typically patrol the edges of the reef, though they can also be found on top of the reef.  They usually keep their distance, but close encounters are not uncommon.

Friendly Batfish
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An amorous Batfish

Batfish are some of the most sociable fish in the sea.  In fact, they can be down-right flirtatious, swimming nonchalantly back and forth while batting their big, beautiful eyes.  When they are feeling amorous, they may even swoop in for a non-consensual kiss!

They can be found in the deep, but generally prefer shallower waters and the protection of docks, much to the delight of snorkelers.

An Abundance of Life

The reefs of Raja Ampat will surprise you on every dive.  One of my favorite experiences  is to be swimming with a large school of fish.  These schools of life often include blue fusiliers, trevally, barracuda, tuna and sweetlips.  When the Great Travally are on the prowl, schools can come rushing from behind and you will find yourself in the midst of a hot pursuit!

The kid in you will love seeing “Nemo”, the clownfish.  They can be a fierce guardian of their territory and will sometimes “attack” from their home in the sea anemone harmlessly striking your camera or your wetsuit.

The reefs of Raja Ampat are also populated by yawning moray eels, fleeting stingrays and chameleon octopi that can change their skin texture and color with amazing speed in order to blend in with the surroundings.

Just like the rest of Indonesia, Raja Ampat always surprises!

 

The Resurrection of Krakatau

Published in Indonesian Expat magazine December 2017

Destruction

When Krakatau erupted in 1883, it became the most powerful volcanic eruption in recorded history. Scientists stationed in Batavia (Jakarta) used seismographs to measure the earth’s movements and this information, along with eyewitness accounts, were telegraphed around the world through new transoceanic cables that connected every continent. It was one of the world’s first global news stories.

View Anak Krakatau, Krakatoa, Rakata, Indonesia, volcano
View from Anak Krakatau

There were no settlements on Krakatau itself as the ill-tempered island had been rumbling for centuries. However, the nearby coasts of Sumatra and Java were well populated by both Indonesians and foreigners, attracted by the rich volcanic soil, the fisheries and the strategic Sunda Strait, a busy shipping lane use for the Dutch spice trade.

The forces that had formed Krakatau Island lay deep within the earth’s crust where the Indo-Australian tectonic plate grinds beneath the Eurasian plate. This subduction process sends island-forming magma to the surface. In 1883, the island actually had three ominous volcanos: Rakata, Danan, Perbuwatan – and all of them were active. However, the magma chamber had been plugged by viscous rock for hundreds of years and the pressure that built inside intensified the eventual eruption on August 26, 1883.

Boat to Krakatau, Krakatau, Krakatoa, volcano, Indonesia
Heading to Anak Krakatau

It must have been a terrifying sight that afternoon when all three volcanos erupted, spewing columns of ash and mushroom clouds 50 km into the atmosphere. Pyroclastic flows (fire, debris and gases) ran down the mountainside and across the sea, traveling at over 160 km per hour incinerating everything in their path. For the people in South Sumatra and West Java who witnessed the event, their world turned black and warm, sticky ash began falling from the sky. It must have felt like the end of the world.

Scientists believe that the partially emptied magma chamber was then filled with a hotter, darker magma from deep within the earth, creating a lethal mixture. Gases expanded, pressure increased and by 5:30 the next morning there was a cataclysmic explosion that ripped the island apart.

Beach on Anak Krakatau, Krakatau, Krakatoa, volcano, Indonesia, volcanic beach
Black sand beach on Anak Krakatau looking towards Rakata Island

Over the next four and a half hours, there were two more explosions. The first one was so loud that it was heard in Perth, Australia 3,200 km to the south and Rodriguez Island 5,000 km to the west. It reverberated around the globe seven times and to this day remains the loudest sound in recorded history. The next explosion was so powerful that the island literally blew itself to bits and whatever was left standing collapsed into the magma chamber and disappeared into the boiling ocean.

The explosions caused deadly tsunamis. Boats in the Sunda Strait witnessed immense walls of water and the coastlines of South Sumatra and West Java were slammed by mammoth waves up to 40 meters high. By the time the damaged could be assessed, 165 villages had been destroyed and almost 37,000 people had lost their lives.

Resurrection

Today the only thing that remains of the original island of Krakatau is half of the Rakata volcano. Left scorched and devoid of life in 1883, Rakata regenerated at an amazing pace. Algae and ferns took hold within three years. Then grasses appeared. Over time trees took over the grasses and within 40 years the island was covered in dense jungle. Visitors today can explore the jungle and find two-toned chunks of lava, testimonials of the magma mixing that triggered the massive explosion and tore Krakatau apart.

Anak Krakatau, Krakatau, Krakatoa, volcano, Indonesia
Sulphuric gases rise from the top of Anak Krakatau

In 1930 Krakatau proved that it wasn’t finished yet. After three years of churning magma onto the seabed a new island was born: Anak Krakatau (Child of Krakatau). Regular eruptions have raised Anak Krakatau to the lofty height of 400 meters in less than 90 years – comparable to the height of the Empire State Building.

There are a few black sand beaches strewn with granite and lava rock. Areas undisturbed by volcanic activity are now covered in jungle. Birds sing and cicadas drone in the mid-day heat. At sunrise one is likely to be greeted by a biawak or two, cousin of the famous Komodo dragon. At dusk retiring egrets and seed-dispersing bats will cast silhouettes against the sunset.

Snorkelers will feel sudden currents of hot water, bump into chunks of floating pumice and get a fascinating look at underwater lava flows. New corals grow from the flows, temporarily providing food and shelter for marine life, waiting to be buried in the next eruption.

Above the jungle is a fascinating transition zone where pioneer species of grasses and trees establish themselves in the sterile ash and rock, laying the groundwork for future forests. Beyond the transition zone looms a barren and foreboding volcano. The trail zigzags upward through silty ash and lava flows of varying color. Sometimes the ground will feel warm as Anak Krakatau radiates from the inside out. Then the landscape becomes an other-worldly scene of bright yellow fumaroles belching out clouds of toxic sulfuric gas.

From the top of Anak Krakatau, looking out over the ocean at the distant Rakata, it’s difficult to comprehend forces so destructive as to make an island disappear, but gazing into the mouth of the crater, one can imagine how it is being reborn.

Anak Krakatau, Rakata Island, Krakatau, Krakatoa, volcano, Indonesia
Where there once was an island, now there is ocean – the view of what is now Rakata Island from the top of Anak Krakatau

Practicalities

The best way to see Krakatau is through a travel company

  • Door-to-door service from Jakarta can be arranged
    • Overland to/from Jakarta to Carita or Anyer
  • Boat to/from the west coast to Anak Krakatau
    • Volcanic activity will determine the trip – be sure to inquire
    • Boats do not operate during much of the rainy season

There are three types of trips

  • One day trips including hiking and snorkeling, returning to the west coast or Jakarta the same day
  • Overnight camping trips including hiking and snorkeling staying on Rakata or Anak Krakatau
  • One-day dive trips including hiking, returning to west coast or Jakarta the same day

On Java

  • Visit the ruins of the Fourth Point Lighthouse and see a 600-ton chunk of coral washed up by the tsunami in 1883
  • Visit the hills behind Carita to see what stopped the tsunami from advancing further inland

 

Ujung Kulon: A Wet Season Romp to Java’s Wild Coast

It was another steamy afternoon in Jakarta. I could see the ominous black clouds moving in, but for now I sat on my Vespa baking in the sun at the longest traffic light in the world. I watched the seconds count down on the digital display above, waiting for the light to turn green. Before it hit zero, the heavens opened up and I was caught in a torrential downpour. And you know what? It felt delicious.

Published in NOW! Jakarta magazine December 2017
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By the time I pulled into my garage, totally drenched, I had sketched out a plan to buck conventional wisdom and ride to Ujung Kulon National Park for a three-day trek in the middle of the rainy season. Why not?

Ujung Kulon, National Park, Taman Nasional, trekking, Indonesia, bamboo bridgeUjung Kulon is located in southwest Java. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that includes a peninsula and the nearby islands. In 1883 when the famous Krakatoa volcano erupted, the ensuing tsunami obliterated the coastal villages and the entire peninsula was then blanketed in ash. Everyone who survived evacuated the area and the land was left to be reclaimed by nature.

Today, almost 135 years later, Ujung Kulon is the largest intact lowland rainforest left in Java and a safe haven for several rare and endangered species including the Javan rhino, the Javan gibbon, crocodiles, and even leopards.

Vespa, Cimaja, Ujung Kulon, National Park, Taman Nasional, Indonesia
Arriving in Cimaja

I packed my Vespa and set out for the south coast surf town of Cimaja, joining the throng of motorcycles attempting to seep through the cracks of Jakarta’s legendary traffic like water escaping from an impossibly clogged pipe. When I finally made to the other side of Bogor I took an alternative road and entered a different world filled with small villages, rainforest-topped mountains and cascading rice terraces. This was the rural Java.

Terry Donohue, travel writer, Cimaja, tattoo, Ujung Kulon, National Park, Indonesia
New tats!

Predictably I arrived in Cimaja amidst an afternoon downpour, but in the morning I woke up to sunlight streaking through holes in the cloud cover and an ethereal prayer call that wafted across the rice paddy. I sipped coffee on my porch to the rumblings of distant thunder. By my second cup, the rain was coming down in buckets.

The weather made it impossible to take surf lessons, which was something I had in the back of my mind, so I donned my poncho and took a walk along a raging river where fishermen patiently constructed fish traps from river rock. By the end of the day I was sheltered in a tiny warung (restaurant) with a tattoo artist and two seven-year-old girls. We all got new tattoos. I know… who saw that one coming?

Vespa, Ujung Kulon, National Park, Tamanjaya, Taman Nasional, trekking, Indonesia, rough road
The last 21 km to the park are is via a “jalan rusak” – a rough road

The next day I headed west over the cliffs and down along the coast through alternating rain and sun, stopping for a swim on a beautiful beach occupied by foraging cows. By late afternoon I was ready to tackle the last 21 km of dirt road to the national park. As if on cue, the sky turned portentous and the deluge began. I nimbly snaked my way around the puddles, some the size of swimming pools. When I couldn’t get around them, I went through them, hoping they weren’t bottomless pits. Locals in the paddies waved and villagers catcalled “Hey Mister!” as I inched by. I thought I was the only one crazy enough to be on the road, but then I was passed by two ojeks (motorcycle taxis) carrying bules (foreigners)! It was Martina and Marko, a young couple from the Czech Republic. We were about to become trekking companions.

Looking like wet dogs, we settled into our rooms for a cold bucket bath and a change of clothes. Over dinner we made plans with Budhi, our guide to be, for a three-day trek through the park overnighting in the ranger stations. Afterwards we walked across the laneway and bought supplies from a well-placed toko (store) that had monopolized the trekker trade. Then, oddly enough, I was directed to park my Vespa inside Budhi’s living room, interrupting one of his family’s favorite TV shows.

Java's Wild Coast, Ujung Kulon, National Park, Taman Nasional, trekking, Indonesia
Java’s wild coast 

In the morning Budhi led us through a village and into the forest. We came to a latte-colored river with a makeshift bamboo bridge. I grabbed onto the single railing that ran down the left-hand side and crossed over as the bridge swayed deeply under my weight. I paused to look upriver into a mysterious void, then downriver where it met the ocean in swirling sandbars. Further out I could see with the remains of ancient trees reaching out of the ocean like half-submerged shipwrecks.

Beyond the bridge we followed the trail to a primeval beach littered with giant logs and shaded by towering buttress-root trees. Monitor lizards posed on the beach like sentinels while the mangroves danced over the water on their roots. This was a wild beauty – this was Java’s wild coast.

We cut back into the jungle and it started to rain. Soon we found ourselves slogging through shoe-sucking mud one step at a time. The mud claimed my sneaker, so I reached down to retrieve it from the quagmire, covering my arm and chest in mud. Marko laughed and slipped on a tree root, catching himself on a thorny rattan. Martina sunk up to her calves and fell backwards with a splash, sending mud the consistency of a milk shake in all directions. This launched an uncontrollable laugh-attack that even our guide enjoyed. We must have looked like a band of drunken sailors when we blundered into a family of wild boar who tracked us with a mixture of curiosity and suspicion.

Beach, deserted beach, Ujung Kulon, National Park, Taman Nasional, trekking, Indonesia
An endless stretch of golden sand

A couple hours later we heard the sound of the surf and emerged from the jungle at the Karang Ranjang ranger station. Before us was an endless stretch of golden sand and a sparkling two-toned sky. It was a welcome sight. We ran into the water, shoes, clothes and all, and enjoyed the rest of the day body surfing and exploring the beach.

We all felt like Ninjas. We had overcome nature’s challenges and had a good time doing it. However, there was one additional fly in the ointment – the sleeping accommodations. The ranger station was hideous. Cobwebs, spiders, rusting beds and mattresses that should have been burned a decade ago. There were no fans, no AC and no mosquito nets. Geckos were everywhere, some of the cute variety like those that surprise you when you open your kitchen cabinets, but others were significantly larger with alien-like blue spots. The three of us looked at each other with faces that resembled a “Wow” emoji, then we burst out laughing. This is it?

The next morning, I woke up fully clothed and covered in repellent. I opened my eyes to the sight of one of those crazy blue geckos stuck to the wall 20 cm from my nose. I passed by Marko and Martina’s room and could see they were resting uncomfortably under a window tangled with spider webs.

I ran down to the beach and for a swim. On the way back I pulled up a few buckets from the well, rinsed off, and then joined everyone for a breakfast of yesterday’s rice, overcooked eggs and fresh papaya – breakfast never tasted so good.

Once packed, we entered the jungle and followed a line of cliffs that ran behind the beach. The dense canopy overhead kept us cool and the brilliant red flowers in the understory were a feast to the eye. The jungle was alive with monkeys, birds and giant snails that slid along leaves leaving a slimy trail. After an hour, we scrambled over some rocks and down to a beach that stretched as far as the eye could see. After a swim, we continued our trek marveling at the half-buried shipwrecks large and small, including the rusting hulk of an Indonesian freighter that the sea had violently ripped in half lengthwise.

Crocodiles, crocs, cooling off, Ujung Kulon, National Park, Taman Nasional, trekking, Indonesia
Crocs!

We never saw another soul until early afternoon when we came upon a lone fisherman huddled in a hut constructed of flotsam and jetsam. He made us coffee while I cooled off in an amber-colored river flowing out of the jungle. I was staring absent-mindedly at the ocean when Marko yelled “Crocs!”. I turned and looked upstream to see bumps breaking the surface of the water like eyeballs. I popped up like a cork flying out of a champagne bottle and took a good look. It was a stick! Laughing at myself, I joined the others at the top of the dune. Looking down into the same river was group of crocodiles lounging on the riverbank in the afternoon sun – mouths agape, just chillin’.

Storm, Java, West Java, Ujung Kulon, National Park, Taman Nasional, trekking, Indonesia
The blackness rolls in off the ocean before pounding the coast with rain

We continued hiking down the beach for couple more hours before being overcome by blackness and thrashing rain. After it cleared, we climbed up and over some cliffs, spooking a herd of banteng (wild cows) before reaching a rock-strewn river hemmed in by jungle-covered bluffs. We had reached the Cibunar ranger station, our next not-so-accommodating accommodations.

Cibunar, jungle river, Ujung Kulon, National Park, Taman Nasional, trekking, Indonesia
Where the river meets the sea at the Cibunar ranger station

That evening after a simple dinner, I fell asleep outside on a bamboo platform while counting shooting stars. It was all very dreamy until the rain came and I was forced to sleep in the “dungeon”.

We broke camp early the next morning under a foreboding sky and the haunting calls of Javan gibbons. Climbing up a valley we encountered a group from WWF who had just spotted a Javan rhino. With a total population of only 60 animals, we marched forward in hopes of a rare encounter, however the rhino eluded us, leaving only massive footprints. Suddenly, the wind kicked up, trees swayed, branches cracked and we were hit by a blinding sheet of rain. We huddled under a large ficus and watched the swollen river rage below. It was a show of power by Mother Nature. Thirty minutes later the rain abated, the clouds parted and sunlight streamed through the canopy illuminating twisted liana vines and trees with root systems large enough to stand under. Meanwhile, hornbills and other birds came out of hiding and started multiple conversations on both sides of the valley. The amount of wildlife that surrounded us was astounding.

After cresting a slippery ridge, punctuated by a few epic falls, we came out of the jungle at Ciujungkulon jetty where a boat awaited to take us to Pulau Peucang, an island where deer, monitor lizards and wild boar mingle freely with meandering visitors. I put on my mask and snorkeled into a titanic school of blue-striped snapper. Further out on the reef I encountered a very social octopus the size of bocce ball. Then a boat pulled up with dozens of clambering Indonesians swaddled in bright orange life jackets. They jumped into the water like migrating wildebeests, scaring everything in sight, including my octopus friend. As entertaining as it was to watch the flailing arms and legs underwater, it was time to return to the boat for the final stage of the journey.

Terry Donohue, travel writer, Ujung Kulon, Ujung Kulon National Park, boat from Pulau Peucang
Heading back to where we started a few days earlier, passing kilometer after kilometer of virgin beach and jungle

It was a 2.5-hour boat ride back to our starting point at the park headquarters in Tamanjaya. The trip took us past many kilometers of virgin jungles and idyllic beaches. The Ujung Kulon National Park is a far cry from the Java you probably know. It is certainly a wild and beautiful place.

As I backed my Vespa out of the Budhi’s living room and waved goodbye to my companions, I was struck by the thought that we sometimes sell ourselves short by avoiding the elements. We cower at the prospect of too much rain (or too much sun) and miss out on opportunities to connect with nature, embrace life and live like a Ninja!

Just then, as if on cue, it started to rain…


Fast Facts

Cost
About IDR 1,000,000 for three-day trek (three people) with guide and boat.

Food
Bring your own or buy basics at the park. Your guide will prepare meals.

Accommodations
Bring a tent and sleeping gear – you won’t regret it!

Don’t Forget
Be sure to bring a mask, snorkel, repellent, sunblock and hat.

Solo Kayaking in the Banyak Islands

Unplug in Paradise

Published in NOW! Jakarta magazine; November, 2017

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I paddled out of the little harbor serving the village of Haloban, returning the greetings of fishermen and kids along the way. An hour later I pulled the kayak up on a deserted beach and dove into the crystalline water. Welcome to paradise.

Continue reading Solo Kayaking in the Banyak Islands

Down Under: Diving Northern Sulawesi

-The Coral Triangle is an area so rich in sea life that it is known as the global center of marine biodiversity.  Stretching north to the Philippines, west to Sumatra and east to the Solomon Islands, the Coral Triangle is where the Pacific and the Indian Oceans meet.  Over 500 species of reef-building corals can be found there, providing homes and feeding grounds to more than 3,000 species of fish.  The Coral Triangle is also a superhighway for migratory species like tuna, whales and ocean sunfish – and Sulawesi lies at the heart of it all.

Continue reading Down Under: Diving Northern Sulawesi

Mystical Japan: Retracing the Footsteps of One of Japan’s Great Teachers

Retracing the Footsteps of Kobo Daishi, One of Japan’s Great Teachers:  Ancient Temples, Primeval Forests and Eternal Life

Continue reading Mystical Japan: Retracing the Footsteps of One of Japan’s Great Teachers

History, Natural Beauty & Wildlife in East Java

Steeped in history, dominated by towering volcanoes and dotted with national parks, coffee and tea plantations, East Java has a lot to offer in a small area.

Published in NOW Jakarta magazine, August 2017
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My first stop was Surabaya and the sprawling harbor of Tanjung Perak, lined with warehouses and crowded with trucks, it is a port for both Bugi schooners and modern steel freighters.   Continue reading History, Natural Beauty & Wildlife in East Java